OK, messagearea does have some of the html in it - it's template editor_ckeditor. Maybe that does have something you can change. But it includes a {vb:raw ckeditor} which is created by a function in vb/ckeditor.php. I still believe that in the end the look of the editor is created by some javascript.
But there definitely is a way to configure the editor, I just don't know how to do it offhand.
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