To see the actual code, you would view the source code on your page and find it listed something like this:
.alt1, .alt1Active
{
background: #F5F5FF;
color: #000000;
}
Or, if it isn't in the source, look for a line like this:
<!-- CSS Stylesheet -->
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="clientscript/vbulletin_css/style-xxxxxx-yyyyy.css" id="vbulletin_css" />
and look in the file "style-xxxxxx-yyyyy.css" for the lines like above.
To actually edit it, go to Styles & Templates > Style Manager > find your style in the list > select Main CSS and find it under First Alternating Color
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